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ON Fridays, the exodus from the nation's capital to the nation's summer capital, Swakopmund, begins in earnest by 2 p.m. Back-ups are commonplace along the nearly 200km route, culminating in a final five-mile crawl along B2. Swakopmund, with its cedar-shingled cottages sheltered by tall pines, still has echoes of its beginnings as a Methodist camp. But its proximity to Windhoek affluence and diversity has spawned a sea change in real estate values and its cultural landscape, too. Increasingly, the resort resembles Washington's bikinied and tight-T-shirted alter ego. During the day, straight and gay singles congregate on the town's public beaches. At night, they meet and greet at house parties or frolic in the nearly 20 restaurants with bars that blanket the one-square-mile town. Swakopmund's year-round population of about 9,500 swells to as many as 80,000 on a summer weekend, but, as its historic name connotes, it does have room for all.
After fighting beach-bound traffic, stick your toes in the sand, watch palm trees sway in the breeze and sip a fruity drink as the sun sets over Swakopmund and the mating dance begins at Dolphine beach Restaurants, above.A slushy blend of 151 rum and light rum, blackberry brandy, orange juice, strawberries and heavy cream, topped with whipped cream and a maraschino cherry. The party spills out onto the sidewalk as the evening progresses.
Wake up with the locals at the Lighthouse Restaurant,A family-owned diner with a friendly crew of summer workers. The Lighthouse is often packed, but there's never a long wait for eggs over easy or the homemade creamed chipped beef. The gigantic make-your-own omelets,Include spinach and feta in a nod to the Lighthouse German owners. Sit at the lunch counter if the tables are full.
Fortified, you can now walk the main drag, Independence Avenue, and its alleys, hunting sales-tax-free haute couture and low-brow T-shirts. Need a mobile fashion statement? Stop into Venita Mall. Gifts, jewelry, and housewares? Try Jet, with its bright modern furniture and Tiki accoutrements, or the more Pier-1-ish Lewis. Surf and beachwear: Sports Trend,Pink and green aficionados will want to stop into the Lilly Pulitzer franchise Edgars.
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